Tudor is a Swiss watch brand founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex. Originally conceived to offer Rolex-level reliability at a more accessible price, Tudor has evolved into a respected brand in its own right. The brand historically used Rolex-manufactured cases and crowns with third-party movements, but since around 2015 has introduced its own in-house MT5xxx calibers. Understanding Tudor markings is valuable for collectors navigating the brand's rich history between its Rolex heritage and independent identity.
Tudor Watch Markings & Identification Guide
Common Models
Serial Number Information
Tudor serial numbers are typically found engraved between the lugs of the watch case, most commonly at the 6 o'clock position. To view the serial number, it is usually necessary to remove the bracelet or strap. The format generally consists of a sequence of digits, and vintage Tudor watches often share serial number ranges that overlap with Rolex ranges, reflecting the close manufacturing relationship between the two brands.
For much of the 20th century, Tudor serial numbers broadly followed a progression that can be cross-referenced with known production date ranges compiled by collector communities. However, the serial number alone does not always provide a precise production date, and cross-referencing with the model reference, dial characteristics, and movement type is commonly recommended. Tudor transitioned to random serial numbers at various points, which can complicate dating for certain eras.
Modern Tudor watches continue to display the serial number between the lugs, with the reference number often found on the opposite side at 12 o'clock. Tudor's official service centers can sometimes verify production dates using internal records, though availability of historical data may vary. Collector databases and Tudor enthusiast forums are often valuable resources for serial number research.
Advertisement
What to Check Next
Common Markings Found on Tudor Watches
A unique alphanumeric code engraved on the case back that identifies your individual watch. This number is typically used for warranty registration, service history, and authentication.
Model Number StampAn alphanumeric code stamped on the case back that identifies the specific watch model or product line. This number is essential for ordering replacement parts and identifying your watch's specifications.
Water Resistance Rating (Case Back)A marking indicating the watch's tested water resistance depth, typically shown in meters, feet, bar, or ATM. This rating describes laboratory test conditions, not actual diving depth recommendations.
Case Material MarkingAn engraving or stamp indicating the material the watch case is made from, such as stainless steel, titanium, or gold. This marking helps verify authenticity and informs care and maintenance decisions.
Bracelet Model NumberA unique identifier stamped on the bracelet that specifies the exact bracelet model. This number is essential for ordering correct replacement bracelets or links.
Case Reference NumberA manufacturer-assigned reference number identifying the specific watch case design, dimensions, and material. This is the primary identifier for sourcing correct case parts and compatible accessories.
Crown Logo StampA brand logo or emblem stamped or engraved on the watch crown. This identifies the manufacturer and can indicate whether the crown is an original or replacement part.
Caliber NumberA manufacturer's identifier for the specific movement (mechanism) inside the watch. This number reveals the movement type, features, accuracy, and service requirements.
Swiss Made LabelA legally protected designation indicating the watch meets Swiss origin requirements for movement, assembly, and quality inspection. "Swiss Made" is one of the most recognized quality marks in watchmaking.
Advertisement
Frequently asked questions
Where is the serial number located on a Tudor watch?
The serial number on a Tudor watch is typically engraved between the lugs at the 6 o'clock position. To view it, you generally need to remove the bracelet or strap. The reference number is commonly found on the opposite side, between the lugs at 12 o'clock. Both numbers are important for identification and dating purposes.
What is the difference between Tudor and Rolex?
Tudor was founded by Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, and was originally designed to offer Rolex-quality cases at a more accessible price point using third-party movements. Historically, Tudor watches used Rolex-manufactured cases and crowns. Today, Tudor operates as an independent brand with its own in-house movements, distinct designs, and a generally lower price point than Rolex, though the two brands share corporate parentage under the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation.
What are Tudor's in-house movements?
Tudor introduced its own in-house mechanical movements beginning around 2015, designated with the MT5xxx prefix. Notable calibers include the MT5602 (time-only), MT5612 (with date), and MT5813 (chronograph). These movements are certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute and typically offer approximately 70 hours of power reserve. Prior to these in-house calibers, Tudor predominantly used ETA and Sellita movements.
How has the Tudor logo changed over the years?
Tudor's logo has undergone several significant changes. Early Tudor watches featured a rose emblem, which appeared on dials and case backs through the mid-20th century. The brand gradually transitioned to a shield logo during the 1960s and 1970s, and this shield has remained the primary Tudor emblem since. The specific rendering of both the rose and the shield has varied over the decades, and the logo style is commonly used by collectors to help approximate a watch's production era.
Are vintage Tudor watches with Rolex markings authentic?
Yes, vintage Tudor watches commonly feature Rolex-related markings, and this is generally consistent with the brand's manufacturing history. Many vintage Tudor watches used Rolex-manufactured cases, crowns, and bracelets, and it is typical to find Rolex coronet stamps on the crown, clasp codes on the bracelet, and occasionally Rolex case back references. The presence of these markings on vintage Tudor pieces is expected and does not necessarily indicate inauthenticity.
How can I date my Tudor watch using the serial number?
Tudor serial numbers can often be cross-referenced with production date ranges compiled by collector communities and published reference guides. These ranges provide approximate production windows based on known serial progressions. However, the serial number alone may not yield an exact date, and it is commonly recommended to also consider the reference number, dial characteristics, and movement type for more accurate dating. Tudor's service centers may also be able to assist with production date verification.
What is the Tudor Black Bay and why is it popular?
The Tudor Black Bay is a line of dive-inspired watches introduced in 2012 that draws design cues from Tudor's vintage dive watch heritage, particularly the Tudor Submariner models of the 1950s through 1970s. The Black Bay is often considered popular for its combination of vintage-inspired aesthetics, robust construction, in-house movements, and a price point significantly below comparable Rolex models. The line has expanded to include numerous variants including GMT, chronograph, and bronze-cased models.
How can I tell if my Tudor watch is genuine?
Authenticating a Tudor watch typically involves examining the serial and reference number engravings for correct formatting and quality, inspecting the movement for appropriate construction, and verifying that the dial markings are consistent with known examples from the same era and reference. The overall build quality, weight, and finishing are also commonly evaluated. For vintage models, the presence of period-correct components and consistent aging across all parts is often considered important. Professional authentication by a Tudor-authorized service center or a specialist in Tudor watches is commonly recommended for significant purchases.
Related searches